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Saturday, July 25, 2009

PHOTO: Dining is an event in Mexico. A little slower. A little less rushed...

OBSERVATIONS FROM TABLESIDE

Originally Published in Western Outdoor News the Week of July 28, 2009


I’ve been here now in Baja for about 15 years. It’s been a wonderful diversion of a career from what I thought I’d be doing at this point in my life. It’s funny how life takes funny turns. Will I be here in 15 more years? Quien sabe? But I’ll enjoy the ride for now.

The longer I’m here, the more I understand and don’t understand about Mexico and it’s wonderful culture and people. It would be wrong to say things are “wrong” or “stupid” just because I come from a different perspective.

When one comes from somewhere else, it’s important to remember that I’m still a guest here and just because folks don’t do things the way I would like or am used to, doesn’t mean it’s wrong. I think many Americans are used to “our way” (which is not always correct to begin with) and hence impose “our way” on everyone else!

Let’s just say there are things I am learning that are “curious” and make me grin, smile or scratch my thinning hairline…especially about dining observations now that we have a bar and restaurant.

For instance, I recently found out why it’s rare to find carnitas taco (pork) stands at night and why more fish taco stands are found in the daytime. As one amigo explained to me, Mexicans think eating pork at night will make them fat. Probably true, but so will a giant plate of cheese and bean-covered nachos! Or nieve (ice cream). Or quesadillas too! Never stopped anyone from what I can see.

The reason there are more fish and seafood taco stands open in the day time is simple pragmatics. Most street vendors don’t have electricity so other than using ice, there’s no way to keep the seafood fresh. Plus the fresh seafood comes from the markets in the day time.

Slice of lime in your beer? Another curiosity. It’s a gringo thing. Locals laugh at it. It’s the result of a certain beer company’s advertising campaign.

Same with tequila chased with lime and salt. Too many movies! Wanna drink like a local in front of locals? Toss the lime away and down it straight up! Salud! (Cheers!)

Speaking of food…”Where the rice?” “What, no beans?” “I want to go to a REAL Mexican restaurant.” I hear this all the time.

It’s a bit like going to China and looking for a “real Chinese restaurant.” Real is a relative word usually colored by your perceptions of your “real Mexican restaurants” back home. Often, it’s some chain restaurant made to look like an old ranch or adobe.

Hence, when you come down to “REAL Mexico,” don’t expect chips to magically appear on your table until you eat yourself full. If you ask, you MIGHT get a cereal-bowl size portion of chips. Anything more and you’ll probably get charged.

Rice and beans are usually not found on the combo #2 plate either. If they have them, order them separately. You’ll usually find these things included only in gringo-fied restaurants attached to tourist eateries in hotels or in tourist areas.

In fact, at most restaurants, they have a specialty. If it’s a seafood restaurant, don’t be the odd one out at the table wanting steak. They probably won’t have it or it’s been sitting in the freezer for awhile. Likewise, a carne asada eatery probably won’t have shrimp either!

While I’m on restaurants, ever notice that you really have to ASK for the bill when you’re done eating? Feeling ignored?

Americans eat early and run…gotta go! We eat and when we’re done…we’re done!

In Mexico, Mexicans generally eat later. Local restaurants fill at 9, 10 and 11 p.m. They eat leisurely. They drink coffee and after-dinner drinks. And they linger and talk. That’s Mexico-style. A carry-over from more gentile times or the Spanish/European manner of dining. Don’t’ rush me!

Once you’re done, you’re not. The waiter will keep an eye, but generally just leave you alone. It’s not rude. It’s Mexico!

That's my story...
Jontahan

Jonathon Roldan is the Baja Editorfor Western Outdoor News and his column appears every other week. He can be reached in La Paz at: riplipboy@tailhunter-international.com