CABIN FEVER OBSERVATIONS

Originally published the week of January 28, 2007 in Western Outdoor News


OK, judging from the e-mails lately, I can tell cabin fever has set in. I’m currently writing this from my motel room in Denver CO. We’re in a Motel 8 (I guess that’s supposed to be two notches up from Motel 6 or something).

It took two days driving over from California through Nevada, Utah and Wyoming and it was pretty much snow the whole way. At one point it was minus 4 degrees and the snow gusts were blowing so hard we figured it was time to pull off the road and wait it out in a motel room. Dangit, I thought Baja was COLD right now. But nothing like this!

We’re setting up for the International Sportsmen’s Expo at the Denver Convention Center but along the way, we passed so many little snowed-in little bergs and villes. I know when I’m in Baja and and I’m housebound for more than a day, I get pretty nuts. What do folks do out here when they’re snowed in for weeks at a time? Yikes!

Anyway, from the e-mails, I think everyone is getting kinda crabby because they need to get outside. Lack of sunshine is unhealthy for the psyche. It’s not that the Baja e-mails are from folks directly mad at me. It’s just that a lot of folks have their shorts bunched up and they’re finding the smallest thing to grumble about.

I’ve had pissy e-mails from folks asking how come there’s no caffeine free diet Coke more readily available in Mexico or why “they” make it too windy during winter to go fishing in Baja. (Who is “they?”) I even got one from someone ticked off because they no one in Mexico seems to make good French fries (too soggy and greasy) . There was even one from a guy in San Diego who was grumbling because his Mexican gardner only speaks Spanish. (What does that have to do with Baja?) As if I had something to do with any of this or could do anything about it! Sheesh. Sir, step away from the television and computer before someone gets hurt.

Anyway, quite a few folks fretting about how cold it is in Baja right now. (It was a frigid 55 degrees in S. Baja last week!) I hear it all the times at these fishing trade shows we’ve been attending the last few weeks. Folks, weather cyclical like everywhere else! Believe it or not, there’s something called “seasons.”

Them: “How come every time we go to Baja it’s never like in the brochures with blue water and warm sunshine? We go to Cabo San Lucas and catch fish, but it’s always chilly and the winds are blowing like hell!”

Me: “When do you usually go to Cabo?”

Them: “December or January.”

Me: “Well, that’s winter. It’s ALWAYS winter in December and January. Why don’t you go in August or September.”

Them: Can’t. That’s hunting season.

Me: “Oh…”

From speaking to so many amigos, I think they forget that like everywhere else, the Baja is not on a separate planet in a vacuum. It’s subject to colder weather, winds and rain just like everywhere else, albeit Gracias a Dios, it’s not as cold as Wyoming! Therefore, if you’re looking for better conditions, come in the spring, summer or fall months. It is what it is in January.

One last comment at these fishing and outdoor shows. Especially at places like Colorado, Northern California, Oregon and Utah where we do shows, it seems everyone dresses in camouflage! Now, God bless all our outdoor brothers and sisters. They are great, but shirts, jackets, hats, belts, shoes, and backpacks are all made of camouflage patterns. They even dress the babies in camo.

If it can be made , it can be be made in camo. Boats, cars, tents, rifle stocks, even babies …you name it! Looking out on the show floor it’s a sea of moving mottled leaves and grass. I guess I can understand that. These are hunting regions and you don’t want your quarry to spot you, right? I get it.

The funny thing is that these fun folks then come to Baja and still wear the camo when they go fishing. Like the fish won’t see you?

That’s my story. If you ever want to reach me, my e-mail is riplipboy@aol.com.

BAJA COUNTRY CARNIVAL!

Originally published in Western Outdoor News the week of January 23, 2007


You know me. If there’s an opportunity to do something a little different or head down that proverbial “road less traveled,” chances are, I’ve already got my weedeater out and am hacking my way down that path. Sometimes it’s been my un-doing and other times, it leads to incredible discoveries.

For those of you who travel the Baja or any of the numerous places in Mexico, chances are you’ve encountered some little pueblo no doubt named after some saint, e.g. San Pablo, Santo Tomas, Santa Maria, etc.

I once asked one of my amigos how they came up with the names. Were the towns finished or dedicated on the feast day of some saint? “No,” he replied. “Usually, the first guy who builds a house gets to name the town. If his name is “Jose” the town becomes “San Jose!” Simple. (Hmmmm….How would “Santo Jonathan” sound? Doesn’t quite have that ring.)

Anway…If you ever want to see a town at it’s best and perhaps see a bit of Mexico that is passing the way of the fifty-cent beer and cheap green Pemex gasoline, get yourself invited to a local town carnival. The further in the middle-of-nowhere, the better! It’s as old-fashioned and culturally rich as a good old American country fair with a Baja twist.

They are always at night. When the desert is quiet. The pangas are beached. The farms are shut down and the stars are all that light the highway. In towns where the birth of a new cow is big news and someone getting cable TV is cause for a fiesta, find the lights. You’ll see the carnival lights from miles away like a baby Las Vegas and hear the music and the sound of the carnival generators long before you’re there.

When you see the signs announcing Gran Fiesta! (big party) and Gran Baile! (big dance) featuring some Banda Famosa (famous band) with a name like the “Toucans of Sinaloa” or the “Los Tigres del Rancho” no doubt written on huge florescent banners draped across main street and you’ve arrived.

It will be packed. They come down from the hills and off the farms. These carnivals last 3-5 nights. It’s the event of the season and the locals are ready to party the night away.

People are dressed up. Ranchers and fishermen might wear the grubbiest clothes to work, but tonite caballeros (cowboys) in their Sunday-finests cowboy hats and boots stroll with their damas (ladies) around the booths filled with trinkets and games, carnie hawkers and vendors. Coy young girls giggle and walk in the dirt with their high heels and best dresses anxiously trying to attract the eye of some young guapo (handsome young man) undoubtedly hanging with friend and trying (like young boys everywhere) “disinterestedly interested.” The younger kids underfoot run and tag, tease and squeal like any kids!

Rides that would never pass safety inspections in the states wheel, tumble and rattle as kids laugh and scream! “Cinco pesos! Cinco pesos!” cajoles the carnie operating the Ferris wheel that noticeably seems to be missing a few bolts. One whirling ride seems to have trouble with the speed. It spins so fast that at times that it’s centrifugal force often send the rider’s shoes or slippers whirling off into the crowd! Look out! But, of course, everyone yells “Faster! Faster!”

There’s a shooting gallery with real pellets and for 4 pesos you get 20 shots at beer bottles and empty spam cans. No safety. Only a sign warning you not to walk behind the booth or you might get shot! I do see someone’s dead chicken in the dirt behind the booth. No doubt killed by friendly fire!

The big dance is on the town’s concrete basketball court. The dance floor is jammed with bodies. Cars nose-to-nose use their headlights to light the dancers. Like many Mexican bands, the whole group is dressed alike in dark cowboy outfits and hats. Amid the thump of the bass and the blaring rancho polka sounds of the accordion, you can hear the generators powering the amplifiers and dancers whirl and step while tables lining the dance area have pyramids of beer cans rising ever taller. Every hour or so a fight break out only to end in hugs and more beer! Amigo! I didn’t know she was your sister! Mas cerveza por mi amigo! Andale!

If it’s the weekend, you’ll be lucky to catch the horse races through the desert where the riders are often so drunk they’d remind you of Lee Marvin’s character in that old movie “Cat Ballou.” The riders aren’t really jockeys as much as they’re just “along for the ride” and the winner must be seated on his own horse when it crosses the finish line. Many don’t finish…riders or horses… and have to be found later! The women handle the betting money to keep it away from the borracho drunken riders!

And food! Dios Mio! It permeates everything and wafts over and through the crowd. Fresh barbecued beef costillos (ribs); sizzling carne asada tacos; fresh tortillas by the kilo! Here’s a vendor making burros (giant burritos) as long as your forearm stuffed with roasted pork carnitas; grilled onions and green chili verde. There’s a booth with steaming tamales and the old women have pork, chicken and another filled with roasted chiles and cheese! The smell of sweet grilled onions seems becken from somewhere.

That booth over there is selling fresh steamed sweet corn in cup. Ten pesos! Filled with grated sharp dried cheese; crema, chili powder and tart sqeezed lime, it’s a deal! Coconut macaroons and almond brittle…honey cookies…hand-made vanilla bean ice cream…Hey! It sounds like another fight just broke out on the dance floor!

And on and on it goes into the night until bodies drop in exhaustion or drift back home. Many can be found sleeping it off peacefully in the streets wherever they ran out of energy (or the alcohol caught up to them.) And then they start it all again the next night! Viva Mexico! Viva la fiesta! I swear, I didn’t know I was dancing with your sister! Oh, she was your cousin! That’s different. Let’s have another beer, amigo!

I sure hope you’re not fishing tomorrow because your captain is gonna be a little late and a little red-eyed!


That’s my story. If you ever want to reach me, my e-mail is riplipboy@aol.com.

BAJA AIRSPACE

Originally published in Western Outdoor News week of January 15, 2006

Photo: Aero Mexico, Alaska Air, Delta Airlines and other airlines have filled in the vacuum left by the grounding of Aero California last year with the competition providing more flights and more affordable travel for the 2007 season.


Well, we’re on our annual fishing/outdoor trade show tour now. It will take us pretty much all over the Western U.S. and at the time you’re probably reading this, we will have finished shows in Las Vegas, NV and San Mateo CA.

This week we’re here at the Califorina State Fairgrounds for the International Sportsmen’s Expo in Sacramento CA. If you’re in the area between January 18-21, stop over at the WON booth to renew your subscription and then c’mon over to our booth to say howdy. Over the next few weeks, we’ll be in Denver, Portland, Long Beach, Salt Lake City and Anchorage.

As I’ve done in the past, I’ll pass on tidbits of information I hear from some of the other Baja vendors about what’s new and exciting in their neck of Baja or stuff I see from tackle manufacturers that will be of interest to you Baja anglers. If you’re planning a trip to the Baja this year, it’s certainly not too early to make your plans or reservations. The most popular boats, hotels and dates fill up quickly now that the holidays are done and folks can think clearly without visions of sugarplums dancing in their heads and can envision margaritas and dancing dorado instead.

There are certainly more choices in airfare this year. Baja travel was thrown into a tizzy last year when Aero California was grounded for alleged safety violations, but the void appears to have been filled with new flights by Delta, Alaska and Aero Mexico/Aero Litoral. There are also rumors that Frontier and Jet Blue might also have flights.

Believe it or not, Aero California still insists that they will be flying internationally again and are now saying they will have “word by February.” (yea, right!) Anyway, they do offer flights from Tijuana now as well as two airlines that I am hearing raves about. Interjet and Avolar are two brand new Mexican airlines that came online last season and are expanding their services into the U.S.

One thing we are noticing is that competition is forcing prices to square up a bit. Last year, when Aero California was grounded, the remaining airlines seemed to show no mercy on Baja travelers and ticket prices skyrocketed. This year, we’re seeing many prices begin to fall in line with some exceptional discount rates depending on your flights and dates.

On the downside, there are some logistic differences. The airlines are more restrictive on weight limits for check-in luggage. I think the days when we could pack a suitcase, an ice chest and they allowed your rod tubes free are gone.

My suggestion is not to pack your own tube. Instead, if there are several of you fishing, put as much into one tube as you can. If packed correctly end-to-end with care, you’ll be amazed how many rods you can fit into a commercial tube or home-made PVC tube. If that’s not possible, I’ve duct taped several tubes together and it counted as one piece of luggage as long as it was under the weight and size restrictions allowance.

Finally, a lot of folks discovered that it was actually pretty easy to cross the border and fly out of Tijuana. I think many folks were quite surprised. For one, there’s little or no security inspection because flying from Tijuana to other Mexican destinations is a domestic not an international flight.

However, keep in mind, that you can’t bring as much luggage on a domestic flight as an international flight. So, if you plan to check in your suitcase, ice chest and rods, it’s gonna cost you a surcharge. If you also plan to bring back 50 pounds of tuna filets on the flight home, you’d better have your credit card ready as well. That’s the trade off.

Lastly, don’t forget that this year, you MUST have a passport to fly so don’t wait until the last minute to apply. Here’s a link if you need it: http://travel.state.gov/passport/passport_1738.html

That’s my story. If you ever want to reach me, my e-mail is riplipboy@aol.com.

STRANGERS IN THE NIGHT

Published the week of January 9, 2007 in Western Outdoor News

Photo: Not sure who took this one, but someone is having a really bad day. The roads in Baja are much safer than ever and no one should be afraid to drive them, but common sense is a good thing to pack along. While roads can be well paved, you can often count on them to also be very very narrow too!

STRANGERS IN THE NIGHT

I often get questions about driving the Baja peninsula. Folks want tips about where to stop; where to eat; what to bring, etc. I could write a book to each of them, but since I’m not into re-inventing the wheel, and there’s so many good books out there already, I defer to books like Gene Kira’s “Baja Catch” and others that have more info in them than I will ever know in my lifetime!

However, I do post up a few general tidbits to folks who ask with the number one rule being: “Do NOT drive the Baja Peninsula at night!”

“Well, why the heck not?” is what I get back.

Besides the obvious things like death (see all those little crosses lining the side of the road?) , drunken drivers, animals on the pavement, no shoulders on the road (and steep cliffs down the sides), rockslides and debris, etc. It’s a wonderful highway and beautiful drive…if you do it in the daytime!

We Americans have a habit of getting from point A to point B as fast as we can. We drive until we’re tired. And we assume that no matter where we stop, we’ll find a 7-11, Motel 6, and an AM/PM mini market gas station. Not so fast in Baja, Pancho. Slow it down.

I’ll admit that I’ve been knuckleheaded myself too many times. I’ve driven like a bat-outta-hell down Mexican Highway 1 and only by the grace of God and fast reactions fueled by coffee and/or Red Bull did I not get killed (Some other time I will tell you what happens when you drink 4 Red Bulls at once…if one works…four MUST be better, right?)

I have not had any major accidents, but I have been run off the road by trucks going the other way and veering into my lane. I have almost rear-ended other vehicles at night that had no taillights and literally going no faster than a slow jog.

I didn’t know goats could fly. I once came around a blind corner north of Santa Rosalia at 60 mph and couldn’t stop before slamming into a herd of goats at full speed and watching two of them launch over my windshield. I also felt a couple of speed-bumps as I musta thumped a few more under my wheels. Since we were on windy roads there was no place to stop, but you simply can’t. It’s like Mr. Toad’s Wild Ride and I’ve seen it time and again. If the owner of the herd finds you, suddenly he will tell you that you killed his “PRIZE” animal (cow, burro, goat, etc.) worth hundreds of dollars!

I once set up camp in the dark in the bushes near a beach around Bahia Concepcion. In the morning when we were breaking camp I realized I had set up the tent on a nest of really pissed off family of scorpions. I think our thick sleeping bags kept us from getting jabbed.

Another time, my amigo and I were just dead tired. We had no tent and my two-seater wasn’t very comfortable for sleeping. We saw a rusty dilapidated old truck next to a deserted farm house (or so we thought) and since it was cold, we crawled under the truck to sleep. Well, early in the morning dark, that rancher fired up his truck with us under it and drove right over us just missing Jeff’s feet with the big dually tires as we were alternately screaming and trying to crawl out.

My only encounter with banditos took place in the boulders north of Catavina. My amigo, Pepe, and I had pulled over and actually had a tent and small fire going. Out of the dark, three grubby and menacing locals materialized. Oh-oh. We were miles from anywhere and a hundred yards off the dark highway.

“Dame su dinero y comida, amigos.” (Give me your money and food.)

I hadn’t been in Baja that long, but my friend Pepe was from Sonora and one of the funniest travel buddys I have ever had. I didn’t understand all the stranger said to me, but I understood enough of it. The main guy approached the fire and his two amigos sort of circled from behind. All those horror stories you hear suddenly blare through my mind. For some stupid reason, the theme song from “Deliverance” and images of Ned Beatty flashed as I saw one of the guys grinning at me with a mouth full of bad teeth.

I was hoping Pepe could talk to these guys and reason with them.

Pepe laughed. What he did surprised me. He want back into the tent and grabbed his guitar. He said we didn’t have money, but we had some food and tequila we’d be willing to share and a song. What? A song? Was he nuts? Before anyone could answer or respond, Pepe just started playing as loud as he could and singing at the top of his lungs. Now, Pepe is a really lousy singer, but he sang his heart out and it was impossible not to start laughing at this surreal thing around a Mexican campfire.

Then, so did the three banditos. Exhale and laugh. They started singing too! Hell, I was so scared I started singing as well making up words to the Spanish rancho song. La-La-La-La-La for all I was worth! As I found out later, one of them told Pepe we were so pathetic, they couldn’t rob us!

Well, the tequila bottle got passed around and there were more songs. I didn’t understand all the conversation, but I told Pepe to just keep singing. Our “amigos” sucked down that tequila, but I told Pepe to only “pretend” to drink. When the three of them were passed out in the dirt, we packed up and snuck out, wheels squealing down the highway! Life in the Baja…

That’s my story. If you ever want to reach me, my e-mail is riplipboy@aol.com.