PAY NO ATTENTION TO THE MAN BEHIND THE CURTAINS!

Originally published the week of May 29, 2007 in Western Outdoor News


I don’t like it up here on the soap box. Even being short like I am, it’s dizzying and eventually high profile people get rocks thrown at them. History bears me out.

I’d rather be writing about tacos and fish and beer drinking and blue waters. But, a lot of that is in jeopardy right now.

Last week I jumped on the box to tell you about the passing of the new “Shark Norma” laws implemented May 15th with little public debate by the federal government and Baja has been in an uproar.

In a nutshell, it looks great on it’s face. To “protect the sharks” the government will no longer issue new shark fishing permits. But look behind the green curtain at the great Oz…

There are already thousands of permits in effect and many of them can be used for as many as 6 boats. The new law allows the commercial fishermen to come within the current 50 mile zone to lay their hooks. Further, the law does not prohibit the taking of “incidental fish.” So, a fishing line with 1000 hooks catches 2 sharks, but “incidentally” and “by accident” hooks 800 dorado and 100 marlin, the commercial guys can now keep and sell those fish! Do the math and it’s easy to see what this will do to the Sea of Cortez.

There have been several demonstrations in Cabo and San Jose del Cabo and folks are sporting black ribbons and signs and banners drape many places. The support in opposition is growing. Folks say this is “war.” Local businesses, hotels, taxi drivers..heck, even Greenpeace seems to be on board and seeing sportsfishers shoulder-to-shoulder to Greenpeace is indeed a rarity. But both major political parties PAN and PRI are in solidarity as well as the Cabo City Council and local politicians. Support seems to also be pouring in from the mainland as well.

The mail I got this week was surprising.

Many readers were completely pissed off and jumped all over the links I provided whereby with one click you could send a protest letter to every single Mexican agency that could make a difference.

I was surprised at the apathy of others. Some were simply resigned to the status quo. “Well, that’s how the cookie crumbles. Glad I got mine and fished the Cortez for 30 years so now I guess I better find another place to fish!” Didn’t even want to send out a letter. Lovely.

Others wrote in that no matter what we do, it won’t make a difference. Some were veterans of the eco and salmon wars in their own parts of the U.S. like the Pacific Northwest. I could sense their frustration with fighting “the man.” “Politics as normal” attitudes. I tried to tell them that if we do nothing then for sure…nothing will get done!

Some of my colleagues down here in Baja were reluctant to go “on the record” because of repercussions against us by the Mexican government and other interests. I was personally told to “watch my own back” for writing this column and going on my website with opposition. Like I said, I surely hate standing on soapboxes.

I will tell you this.

The day the law went into effect, we saw a spotter plane and commercial boats out on one of the inshore banks near us here in La Paz. There were also reports of a big commercial boat not 5 miles off Punta Colorado.

I’m not giving up. Am I panicked? No. Am I worried. You betcha. But people who have a lot more at stake than I do, are in the fray.

Bobby Van Wormer, whose family is known to many of you, who own 3 of the largest East Cape Hotels has been appointed to go to Mexico City to take the battle to the mainland. He’s there as you read this. His offices tell me he’s encouraged about getting the law changed or at least a moratorium on the law until there can be more studies and more input. Two Mexican presidents vetoed this law. President Calderon’s folks didn’t waste time bending to the commercial interests in Ensenada, Sinaloa or Sonora implementing this new law.

The Van Wormers have clout. The hotel owners and old time families in Baja have clout. All the developers have clout. But I have to believe that each of us, en masse, have something to say too! Hate to be nationalistic, but U.S. dollars and YOUR trips down here built the Baja. You are the reason the Van Wormers and the Bulnes family and the Ruffo families and others have their hotels and developments and fleets. Indeed you’re the reason I’m sitting in my office in La Paz right now.

On a guerilla level, I will admit cheering a bit. I hear local captains and crews are making it hard on the commercials. While Bobby Van Wormer is taking it to the mainland, here at ground zero I hear though the coconut telegraph that the localfishermen are cutting nets and lines whenever they find them. Other boats are buzzing the commercial boats and making it hard for them to set up. I would never advocate the destruction of property or violating the law but I like hearing that folks are hitting the commercials where it hurts. Cutting up a commercial line costs mucho dinero. Like I said,the locals are calling it a “war”. It’s not much different than all the times I’ve seen some commercial boat come right into the fishing pangas and start wrapping up a tuna school while the sportfishers are trying to earn their own living.

But this isn’t just about tourist and fishing dollars. It’s about all the little guys down here. The taco stand owners; the taxi drivers; the bellmen; the deckhands; etc. These are all the thousand of people and families who eck out a daily scratch living because you folks like to visit.

And haven’t we done enough to the Sea of Cortez? I like what one local lawmaker said (paraphrased) , “What happens when the whales and porpoise migrate through the Sea of Cortez? Do we put someone out there to tell them to go around the net and hooks?”

He’s right. The kind of damage we’re talking about here isn’t easily reversible. In reality many of us can find other work. However, I’ve never been able to grow another dorado or a whale by pressing a button.

Here’s those links again.

The breakdown of the law done by Sea Watch http://www.seawatch.org/mail_campaign/norma_press_release.pdf and the link to how you can make yourself heard: http://www.seawatch.org/mail_campaign/norma_letter.php

BREAKING NEWS: As this was going to press, the local paper, Sudcaliforniano in Baja reported that changes to the new law are going to be made. I’ll follow up and keep you posted.


That’s my story. If you ever want to reach me, my e-mail is riplipboy@aol.com.

YOU'RE GOING TO FEEL A LITTLE PRESSURE

Originally published in Western Outdoor News the week of May 21, 2007


PHOTO 1: Protestors lining up outside the Mar de Cortez Hotel in Cabo San Lucas. The city is riled and angry over the passing of the new fishing legislation that adversaries say will virtually wipe out sportfishing in the Sea of Cortez and is funded by commercial fishing interests in the mainland who have Mexican politicians in their back pockets. Later almost 150 sportfishing boats would line up outside the marina in protest and one boat was burned. More protests are planned.

PHOTO 2: Dead marlin symbolically laid into a coffin and tied to the roof of one business. Residents of Cabo San Lucas have taken to tying and wearing black ribbons and arm-bands in solidarity. Locals are vowing "not to go quietly" on this matter. One local official said that he is hoping violence can be averted as both the PAN and PRI political parties have joined the fray against the new regulations, something rarely seen where BOTH opposing parties actually agree on something.

PHOTO 3 : On the roof, protestors laid banners and other symbols of protest and the office of Fishing and Agriculure was duct taped closed by protestors symbolizing how the government has not raised a voice over this heated issue.

THE STORY

“You might feel a little pressure.” Famous last words of the doctor before he sticks it to you one way or the other and you know darn well, he’s a lying rat bastard. It’s gonna hurt like hell.

Well…guess what? You’re gonna feel a little pressure yup…it’s also going to sting…A LOT!

If you ever wanted to pick a fight to jump in on, this might be it, amigos. Y’know, I usually try to keep it light and easy here on this column. I have an abhorrence for politics and politicians after years of working as a reporter and later an attorney, but sometimes you gotta amp it up.

I will not be surprised if there are repercussions for writing this column this week, but what the heck. Maybe, it won’t matter anymore! When I asked some of my associates to comment, some declined because of retribution by certain “interests.”

I know a lot of you don’t know that I have my own fishing fleet operation here in La Paz and generally, I try not to tout it and keep it separate from this column to hang onto some semblance of credibility with you. This isn’t a space to self-promote, but I think in 3 years of writing this column I hopefully have a bit of cred with the readers.

Get ready because Baja fishing as you know it and love it just changed. Be afraid. Be very afraid. With a sweep of the pen, sportfishermen, tour operators, hotel owners, restaurants…so many hard working people who rely on the sporfishing industry and what it has meant to the Baja just got rubber-gloved, to put it lightly. And that is not a cough that you hear.

Just last week, on May 15th, new Mexican legislation named NOM-029 went into effect. It slid right in and can’t say we weren’t warned. I hate talking politics. I’m just the fishing guy. But, after two Mexican presidential administrations shot down the idea, the new administration under President Calderon didn’t waste time.

See if you can follow the reasoning here and why people are more than upset south of the border down here.

I am not a tree hugger. However, under the guise of “ ecological well-being” to “protect the sharks,” the Mexican government will no longer issue any more permits to take sharks under NOM-029. Yay! Huzzah! Bravo! High five!

But, as they say in the info-mercials before sticking you…BUT WAIT!

No new permits? Whoop-dee-freaking-doo! There are already more than 4000 boats that can use their existing permits! More than 300 permits have been issued to boats larger than ’89 feet. More than 200 permits to boats less than 89 feet. More than 600 to pangas with up to 6 pangas able to work off a single permit. Ever gotten into a dorado bite and seen how many “incidental” dorado you can catch in an hour? Using current methods, that’s about 1.5 million additional hooks in the water every day.

And, here comes the gaff…there’s no restriction on “incidental catches.” Supposedly while fishing for shark, its (by the way) no big deal if marlin, dorado or other “incidentals” are caught. Hooks laid out for miles along the ocean sure don’t discriminate. No bag limits. No daily totals. Sportfish can be caught and sold just like any other fish. And they can catch all they want because it’s “incidental.” On top of it, the new law permits the commercial boats to come within the 50 mile limit. Hell, I’ve seen tons of these boats 50 feet from shore fishing ILLEGALLY. Guess what happens now that it’s LEGAL to do it?

Oh, and guess who’s supporting this? Commercial interests in Ensenada, Sinoloa, Sonora and even some U.S. interests. Are we surprised?

And it’s making some strange bedfellows and pissing off a lot of people.

This past week, almost 150 sportfishing boats in Cabo San Lucas gathered in protest. I mean, half these fleets often don’t even talk to each other in this highly competitive market place. And…they burned boat. Yup. Fried it and sank it right there at the arches in protest to make sure EVERYONE saw it and knew what was up. That’s about the largest concentration of boats short of D-Day or the Bisbees Tournament. Might as well forget the Bisbees now. Heck, might as well forget the jackpot trip you, Joe, Marty and Dennis have every year on the Gordo Banks. Ain’t no more fish, Bucky!

The morning the law went into effect, one source said that as many as 70 commercial Mexican boats were lined up ready to steam up the Sea of Cortez to start their “harvest.” As you read this, unless there has been an unlikely moratorium, they are already stacking their catch boxes.

How has the government responded? Is that the sound of one-hand clapping? They have said absolutely nothing!

Protestors even went to the office of the Secretary of Agriculture and Fishing and taped it shut in a symbolic act regarding how local government authorities have been strangely silent about all this. Folks, they’re vowing to take it to the streets and not go quietly.

Greenpeace originally backed NOM -029 as might be expected since the law purports to “save the sharks.” But now, Greenpeace is back-peddling in a wave of controversy already heaped upon them by their protests against the new marina in San Jose del Cabo. Greenpeace is now saying it was mislead in the facts they were given and interestingly now finds itself actually somewhat aligning itself with the sportfishing industry with whom they are often at odds.

As if to underscore how much fishing directly and indirectly contributes to the Baja economy, a 200 million dollar development project on the East Cape(that’s another can ‘o worms for me, but I applaud the brass nuggets) was canned this week by investors after the new laws went into effect. It would have included hotels, golf courses and a marina. There was a lot more than 200 million dollars that just went by the wayside in terms of jobs, tax revenue, etc.

If you’d like to see the full run-down on this whole mess, click this: http://www.seawatch.org/mail_campaign/norma_press_release.pdf and get the scoop. Minerva, from the Minerva’s Tackle Store whom many of you know, has been spearheading a lot of this and is the contact point. Also, if you’re ticked off enough and want to try to make a difference, Sea Watch has put together an incredible webpage whereby you can customize your own angry letter to every single agency or public official that matters. http://www.seawatch.org/mail_campaign/norma_letter.php is the link. Fire this to every single person you can as fast as you can.

As you’re reading this, they’re already fishing YOUR vacation fish as well as your kids’ fish too. Anyone wanna hire a short brown funny looking column writer and former fishing fleet operator? Resume and references upon request. I wish we could dial up more fish as easy. Once gone, they’re gone.

AFTERWARD: The day after I wrote this story, I was out on the water off Cerralvo Island, a commercial boat with a spotter plane was already setting up lines and nets off the island ready to start harvesting. Additionally, another commercial line boat was reported 5 miles off Los Barriles on the East Cape.


That’s my story. If you ever want to reach me, my e-mail is riplipboy@aol.com.

ROARING SILENCE

Originally published in Western Outdoor News the week of May 15, 2007


Photo: Needs no explanation! Sunset on the Sea of Cortez...


It’s amazing what you don’t hear if you just listen.

Many years ago when I was younger and dumber than I am now, which isn’t saying much, I decided to go sky diving. I didn’t tell my parents who will probably be reading this now and be shocked. I just went. Don’t ask permission. Ask forgiveness. I actually got hurt doing it, but that’s another story.

What amazed me, however, was something I had never heard before. As that chute opened and my heart and brain neurons stopped hammering each other in fear, I drifted downward through a cloudy haze. And I heard it. Listen. Absolutely nothing. The sound of “nothing” was so profound you couldn’t miss it. ,

You think you hear nothing? Stick your fingers in your ears and you still hear things around you or your own body. Step outside your home at night or someplace you think you’re alone and you’ll hear the hum of electrical currents, the air conditioner, traffic, the rustle of trees or bushes. Perhpas a distant plane. There is always something

“Nothing” sounds like a blank piece of paper looks.

. Climb to the top of a mountain and you’ll probably still hear something. Lock yourself in a closet or dive to the bottom of your pool and you’ll still hear something.

There are few places on the planet where you can still go to hear nothing. It was like that skydiving. Utter silence. Not a bird. Not a car. Not even the wind because I was drifting the same speed as the wind.

But, Baja might still be one of them.

I used to live in an old adobe house with a palapa (palm) roof. Ten miles down a dirt road and 100 yards up from the beach, I was in a bit of an arroyo so I didn’t get much of a breeze. I was far up enough from the beach that the calm bay in front of me rarely had waves that made a sound. Electrical hums? I didn’t have electricity. I lived by candles, torches and flashlights! Does an occasional coyote call count?

With no electricity, I obviously had no TV and I was too remote to catch radio, but what grand evenings of entertainment I would have after work. I’d pull up an old lawnchair and prop my feet up on my low stone wall. My dog would join me. And we’d sit. For hours.

And we’d let the Earth talk in silence. Shooting stars by the dozens would criss-cross the sky and you could actually see the Milky Way and indeed, there were more stars in the sky than grains of sand on the beach!

Electrical storms out to sea play a silent staccato of flashes on the horizon as lightning strobes the distant night like an artillery barrage from an old war movie.
You never saw lightning per se…only the nano-second light bulb explosions reflecting off the nighttime marine lair. Two… then three… then six… and then one… followed by three more and with no rhyme, reason, rhythm or pattern to be discerned. But one minute was never like the next and it continued for hours.

Occasionally, a ship would pass in the inky night. I never saw the boat, but you make a guess and judge the lights of the cabin and rigging. Too far to hear an engine. Too dark to make a shape. A cruiser? A sailboat? Where were they going and who was aboard? Yachties on holiday or fishermen on their way?

And down the beach, campfires flicker from the commercial fisherman’s shanty camp. An occasional headlight blinks and illuminates figures but again, too far to hear the stories you know are being told about great catches and ones that got away. Now and again and an aroma wafts by with the smell the cookfires, simmering tortillas, rice, beans and fish.

A few boats push off the beach lantern lit and bobbing in the beach surf. Out past the windline. Perhaps a bit of nightfishing or jigging for squid. I can’t see the pangas and the ocean might as well be a big black pit, but the illumination of the onboard lanterns tells me there’s activity on the water.

But as the night goes on, the campfires burn less brightly and glow only to finally wink and die. And more stars shoot by overhead Jimmy the dog has already stretched out asleep and I too turn in. No words. None needed. Just another Baja night of purely silent entertainment. I blow out the lanterns. And I can still smell the tortillas from down the beach carried by the onshore wind. Morning comes soon enough.




That’s my story. If you ever want to reach me, my e-mail is riplipboy@aol.com.

PASS THE GREY POUPON!

Originally published the week of May 8, 2007 in Western Outdoor New Baja Column

A number of seasons ago, I got an e-mail from a prospective fisherman who asked me if they had “caffeine free diet Coke.” According to him, “my wife won’t go if they they don’t have her favorite beverage.”

For some of you reading this, your initial reaction might be one of amusement as in, “We’ll shucks, honey, if you REALLY can’t make it, then I guess I’ll have to ask my buddy Bill to come instead. That’s a shame that backward country has no caffeine-free Diet Coke. I’ll REALLY miss you!”

That was quite a few seasons ago. I’m not sure how I responded back then to the e-mail, but back then, I really had no idea if such a specialty item was carried on market shelves.

But fast forward to 2007.

If you really want to know what’s up in Baja, don’t look at the houses or cars in the neighborhood. Check out the local market. That’s the true bellweather of Baja.

Years ago, you’d have gotten a puzzled look asking for Diet Coke, or any other “diet” beverage. There was Coke and there was Pepsi and some stores carried a whopping 2 six packs and that was it! Maybe a whole case if you were lucky.

The largest stores had your bare essentials and you were happy to have them. Meat, some fruits, maybe 2 types of bread, tortillas, salsas, canned goods (SPAM and Campbells Soup), and, if they had refrigeration, dairy products like some cubes of butter and local cheese. Milk was condensed or came in waxed boxes. Toilet paper, soap and cleaning detergents rounded it out. Oh…and beer. Either the Pacifico line or the Tecate line. Some Corona too. Maybe.

The face of “modern Baja” is now the mall and the mega grocery store!

Not only will you find all the diet drinks, but count on unheard of things like rootbeer; bottled ice tea; the latest fad energy drinks; beers from Germany and Japan; even fresh fruit “juice bars” where you can get fresh-squeezed juices or “designer” juice bars in the store that will squeeze it, mix it, fortify it and make smoothies just like in the states.

You’ll also find (of course) pseudo Starbuck-style coffee bars so you won’t have to do without your triple expresso late’ mocha grande; delicatessens with steaming Mexican dishes; roasted chickens; fully stocked bakeries turning out breads and pastries; and foreign food section that sells things such as wasabe and nori to make sushi as well as goose-liver pate, hearts-of-palm, olive oils and Belgian chocolate!

One of the mega stores in La Paz even has…get this…a “cheese tasting bar” stocked with everything from local cheese to gruyere, provolone, romano and French blue cheese among others. There’s an “olive tasting bar”; and a “whole foods bar” with granola, oats; bran; dried fruit and nuts sold by the kilo.

The shelves have everything from your kid’s favorite breakfast cereal to fifty kinds of potato chips and luncheon meat including Virginia ham and Canadian bacon.

After checkout the kid who does the bagging will gladly walk you and your groceries out to the car. A “parking” attendant helps you pull your car out’ve the parking space and on your way.

That little “backward” country has both feet in the new century. Bienvenidos a la frontera! (Welcome to the frontier!)

I guess your wife is coming along after all!

That’s my story. If you ever want to reach me, my e-mail is riplipboy@aol.com.