Insofar as several marinas and hotels are planned on this remote stretch of Ventana Bay, this early morning view of Cerralvo Island won't be around much longer nor will the "old school" style of launching pangas off the beach.

OLD SCHOOL ALL OF A SUDDEN

Originally Published in Western Outdoor News the Week of June 3, 2009

I’ve always kinda liked the term “old school.” It denotes a somewhat different way of doing things…perhaps different values…a different character in a person or thing. Days gone by?

So, how did I suddenly get to be “old school” and why does it humorously “sting to get labeled.

So, there I was yakking with some uh…”younger” Baja anglers about how enjoyable it was to drive down the peninsula “back in the day” and pull up, wipe the dust off; scrape the insects off your windshield; and hit an oasis like the Punta Chivato, the old Serenidad, Hotel Las Arenas or Punta Colorada Hotels. Even the old Hotel Cabo San Lucas in it’s heyday was quite a rustic site.

After all those long bumpy grimy miles, to step onto those cool shaded terra cotta floor tiles and the verdant gardens and hear the splash of the mossy court fountain was like heaven. And then to be handed an actual real cold beer across the long bar of the cantina as you looked across over the palm trees and beaches towards the bluest waters you had ever seen was an indescribable sensation. You had arrived!

And, you know what? Beyond that frosty beer; the fishing; the swimming pool (no swim up bar!) and those great tacos; there wasn’t much else going on. And that was just fine…back in the day!

What else could an angler want? Oh…those hammocks under the trees were an awfully nice touch after dinner and a Cuban too. Maybe some smooth sipping tequila. Watching the stars blinking on and to actually see the Milky Way was the topper.

I was expressing these exact words to my young listeners who looked a bit incredulous when I said, that’s about all there was to to do.

“What about the golf?” asked one. “And no waverunners?” “Did you have satellite TV to catch sports?” “I bet you didn’t even have computer hookups, did you?” asked one other with a grin.

I had to remind him that we didn’t even have computers. Heck, not even a cell phone. (Gasp!) In fact, many of you other “old schoolers” can remember that if you wanted to make a phone call, you had to hitch a ride to the local pueblo and find the block house with the rusty “larga distancia” (long distance) sign hanging outside. You paid your money. You made your call and it may or may not ring on the other end. Ultimately, short of someone dying, NO call was worth all that trouble to interrupt the afternoon happy hour!

In fact, despite our current need to have cell phones surgically attached to us, very few calls are really that urgent at all. They weren’t then. They aren’t now!

I told these guys that you didn’t “Priceline” a hotel or read hotel reviews on Trip Advisor first. You didn’t “blog” or “twitter” your friends to get their opinions about a destination. You didn’t choose your hotel by whether it offered massage services, Sunday brunch or free kayaks. You never expected a mint on your pillow although air-conditioning was sure nice.

Often, you chose your hotel because that’s when you got

a. Tired of driving
b. Ran out’ve gas
c. Ran out’ve water
d. You liked the way the name sounded and it was close to the beach
e. It looked like they might have electricity and running water!

You expected to see a bug here and there. It’s Mexico! Track lights? How about a single light bulb from the ceiling! You didn’t complain when the lights went out at 9 p.m. either. There was nothing wrong with the electricity. That’s just when they turned off the hotel generator.

But what was there to do after 9 p.m. anyway? You sat around in the dark in a lounge chair with a drink or around the hotel fire, if they had one. And you talked and laughed and bonded.

And the stars came out and the waves could be heard down on the beach and the breeze ruffled the palms. And you solved all the world’s problems with some of the best conversations you will ever have in your life with friends you will never forget.

“Dude, that sure is old school, alright!” said one of the young guys.

I don’t need a mint on my pillow. I guess if I’m old enough to remember those days, then I am “old school.” And I’m glad I still remember “back in the day.”

That's my story!
If you ever need to reach me down here in the Baja I"m at riplipboy@tailhunter-international.com


Jonathan
Tailhunter International La Paz

SHHHHHH....AWFULLY QUIET DOWN HERE!

Originally Published in Western Outdoor News the Week of May 18, 2009


Well, judging from the preliminary reports this season, I would think that the Sea of Cortez and the Baja in particular are in for a pretty nice fishing season. It started early with the incredible marlin bite that was off-the-charts around Cabo San Lucas. Words like “epic” and “historic” were often attached as boats slammed striped marlin in record numbers.

Waters have warmed quickly and the body of marlin has moved up and into the Cortez early as have other pelagic species as well. So far, the reports on early season dorado, sailfish, tuna, wahoo and even blue and black marlin have locals and veteran visting anglers cocking eyebrows and rubbing chins. The bite is on and seemingly getting better. Is this going to be one of THOSE years?

Even further north towards Loreto, Bay of L.A. Concepcion, Mulege, things are percolating. There are some unusually good catches starting to bubble up and the anticipation is growing. We could be in for something special.

Just one problem…

No one is here!

I watched several planes unload here in La Paz the other day. Almost empty. Clients coming through Cabo San Lucas tell me planes had a dozen people in them. It was so empty you could lie down across several seats.

I took clients to the airport today. It was a bit like walking through a museum or a library. Awfully quiet!

Mexico, and Baja in particular, has gotten a quadruple whammy. It’s gone 4 rounds with the champ and taken it on the chin with a few too many haymakers.

First, and foremost, the economic slump in the U.S. has shut off the tourism on so many levels. Fishing, diving, hotels, restaurants, tours, gasoline…you name it. Squeezed like a lime being pressed in a margarita.

Then, it was the perception that Mexico is overrun with druggies shooting willy-nilly at each other and pegging tourists in the process. A “Crime Spree Grips the Country!” screams the TV. Of course, many people don’t realize that Mexico is bigger than the U.S. and, although bad, the actual spots are localized. But, the whole country gets painted with the same tainted paintbrush.

Third, we get the pig flu. Exhale. Sigh. What the..? (I don’t even know how to say that in Spanish!)

Again, the paintbrush comes out. All of Mexico is rampant with this plague-of-a-flu. In reality, it’s about as potent as the thing your kid brings home from school. Yes, unfortunately, people have died in Mexico City. But thousands die yearly from regular flu and no one gets upset. In Baja, as of this writing, not a single person has come down with the swine flu along it’s entire 1000-mile-long state.

But, people stay home. Toursits give up. “Honey, let’s go to Disneyworld instead. We can eat Mexican food in Fronterland.”


Unofficially, I hear Cabo is at 22 percent occupancy. On the Mainland, places like Cancun usually filled with the sun-crowd is at a whopping 7 percent occupancy.


This past week, even the people that wanted to come down were thwarted. Reports of clients showing up at airline counters ready to go on their vacations being turned away were not uncommon. They were told, sometimes with no warning, that the flights were canceled simply because there weren’t enough people on the flight! “Gee, sorry about that. I’m sure the kids miss you back home anyway.”

Ridiculous. Rather ironic. The planes are empty because so many people canceled because of the swine flu. The planes aren’t flying because they are empty. Circular.

If you do come to the Mexican airport, you’ll be surprised by a little device they are using to take your temperature. No, you won’t “feel a little pressure.” It’s not that kind of a probing device! But, when you arrive and depart they touch it to your head to take your temperature to make sure you’re not running a fever. I guess you don’t get to fly if you have a bug…any bug.

Anyone noticed that all the “news” about the crime seems to have vanished for the most part? Guess the druggies are wearing surgical masks and staying indoors.

What next? Any more calamities and some of these Baja towns will look like high noon waiting for a gunfight. Just add tumbleweeds and dust blowing across the street. And a little Clint Eastwood spaghetti-western music.


That’s my story. If you ever want to reach me, my e-mail is riplipboy@tailhunter-international.com.